2002 - 2009 Honda VFR 800 Interceptor Modification Page

Site Owner:  Sean T Murphy, VFR{[at]}seantmurphy.com... darn spam bots.

Please be sure to visit our sponsors.  They keep the lights on around here, thank you.

Note:  The videos, pictures, and links on this site will open in a new window.  Please set your pop-up blocker accordingly and your phaser to stun.

Modification Links:*
• Lowering Your VFR800 or How to Make Your Legs Feel Longer

• Adding a Car Alarm or Put the Ignition Punch Down, Step Away From the Bike, and Nobody Gets Hurt

• Adding Hazard Lights or Sir, The Lights Are Blinking and Flashing... Flashing and Blinking

• Wiring Up Rear Turn Signals to Act as Marker Lights (Like the Front) or For the Love of God Don't Hit Me

• Changing Your Side Markers or I Don't Want to Ride a Huffy

• Changing Your Horn or Land Yacht... Coming Through

• Securing Your Jackets and Non D-Ring Helmets or I Don't Want to Carry This Crap Around During Bike Week

• Invisible and Removable Tank Protection or Scratches... We Don't Need No Stinking Scratches, Man

• Adding a Vista Cruise Throttle Lock or I Feel the Need... The Need for Steady Speed

• PAIR Valve, Variable Air Intake Valve and Snorkel or I Don't Want to Hear It... The EPA's Energy Star Program Approved a Gas Powered Alarm Clock... No Really, Google It

• Exhaust Baffle Removal or Can You Hear Me Now?

• Make your VFR a True Solo Seat or How Often Do You Ride Two Up?

• Travel Pictures or Look Kids... Big Ben, Parliament

• Ybor City Bike Fest 2003

• Biketoberfest 2004

• Hawaii 2005

• Bike Week 2005

• Bike Week 2006

• The Wolf, The Dragon, and Cherohala 2007

• Bike Week 2008

• Red Rock 2008

• Orange County Sheriff's Office PAL 2010 Ride

• Random

• YouTube

• Resources... We Have Resources?

My VFR's Specifications or Do You Really Care at This Point??

*Note:  The information on this page is not intended as instructional.  I am not a professional mechanic nor do I play one on TV, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.  These modifications can be dangerous and even deadly if improperly implemented.  You should always consult a Honda certified mechanic for all modifications.  I accept no liability for any use or misuse of this site (no good deed goes unpunished).  This fine print brought to you by the Law Offices of Dewey, Cheatem & Howe.     "I'm not even supposed to be here today."  --Dante Hicks, Clerks


Lowering - Updated June 4, 2009

Feel free to email me with any questions you may have, see email address at top of page.

***Click on thumbnail images to view high resolution photos***

This modification will lower your bike 1.5 inches.  OK, you'll need a set of Allen wrenches, box wrenches, and socket set.  Not to worry, this is fairly easy.  Note:  You do not need to remove any body work.  First put the bike on the center stand.  You may need a friend to help make it easier although you could do this by yourself.  But why not hang out with a friend?


Now we get to the meat of this modification.  Above is the original dog bone. This is a little out of focus, but you want a box wrench on the back nut and use an 8mm Allen hex socket on a ratchet to loosen up the bolt. Picture of the two nuts on the back.  The first is at the bottom of the triangle behind the muffler bolts in the foreground.  The second is to the right between the two headers. Use a box wrench to hold these nuts in place while you use sockets to remove the 14mm bolt and 8mm Allen bolt. Before you remove the bolts, put boards under the rear wheel as the wheel will drop down.  You will also use the boards as a lever to move the wheel up to connect the new, longer dog bone.

Dog bone removed.  Just place the new one in and bolt up the left one first (the one that attaches to the motor).  Then have someone lift the board until the right hole meets the dog bone hole (the one at the bottom of the triangle).  Put the bolt through and tighten them down to specs. Here are all the torque specifications for the rear.  The blue box is the area of focus. Comparison of the two dog bones,  Honda's on the top.  Note the collars in the top dog bone.  Push those out and put them in the new dog bone. Here is a tip, take two canvas bags and fill them each with about 30 pounds of weights, then hang them off the struts for the saddle bags.  This makes the bike's weight neutral on the center stand and will make lowering the front easier or have a friend lean on the tail.  With the bike on the center stand and the weights on the back saddle bag mounts, loosen the bolts for your clip-ons.  Then loosen the four pinch bolts on the fork tube of the triple tree.  You will want someone to hold the back so it doesn't drop down.  Then the person in the back, in my case my wife (thanks, Honey), can pull up on the back end lowering the front.  If you go too low, just push down on the back end.  The extra weights you added makes it really easy.  Just use a caliper to measure 68mm of fork tube above the top triple clamp.
Your stock forks extend 41mm above the triple clamp.  Raise up the forks to about 68 mm, this still gives you 4.3 inches of travel for the forks before the lower triple clamp, which is the max front suspension travel.  Now there are two black metal hose guides under the oil cooler on the left and right, just to be safe push them upward, they'll bend up.  This will make sure they don't hit your tire guard if you fully bottom out your front suspension. Finished with risers. Here is a little trick... On the bottom of the oil pan is a fin that protects the drain bolt.  There are two other fins in front and in back.  Take a level and put it across those three points, they are all the same length, and check to see if your lowering job is level. Side stand: Take the spring off, a pair of Channel Lock pliers work well. Then remove the 14mm nut.  Then use a 8mm wrench to remove the position sensor bolt.  Then remove the 14mm bolt.  Repeat in reverse for the new one.  You will need to remove the Allen bolt for the fairing right by the side stand so you can flex it out of the way to put the side stand sensor back in place.  Ignore the side stand in the middle.  Ron's is the short one on the right and stock is on the left.

Enjoy your new longer legs.

One last thing, you will need to adjust your pre-load on the rear shock as the default setting before being lowered will now have no tension on the shock.  For the 2002+ ABS models you will need to tighten the knob 6 - 7 turns once you feel tension to be set back to default stock setting (adjust accordingly from there).  For the non-ABS models you will need to get your wrench out and adjust the pre-load as well.

Long Term Report - September 15, 2008:
32,000 miles no issues with height or side-stand.  I was at the local Honda shop for a celebration and won the slow ride contest over Gold Wings and Harleys.  I really like the looks of the stand, the Honda mechanics didn't know it wasn't the OEM side-stand or notice that the bike was lowered.  I had to point it out to them, they were impressed and liked the ride and ride height.

Long Term Report - July 27, 2008:
Almost 32,000 miles no issues with height or side stand.  The first test ride and park was outstanding, no issues. 

Long Term Report - May 7, 2007:
Over 23,000 miles now and the ride is great, no issues to report.  We did 1,600 miles in 72 hours.  We rode from Orlando to Canton, GA to ride Blood Mountain, Deal's Gap, and the Cherohala Skyway.  The Dragon and the Skyway two up.  Nothing scraped two up with saddlebags and trunk loaded to boot. 

Long Term Report - March 31, 2007:
Over 20,000 miles now and the ride is great, no issues to report.

Long Term Report - July 7, 2006:
Over 15,000 miles now and the ride is great.  I still haven't scraped on anything even two up.

Long Term Report - August 4, 2005:
Almost 11,000 miles now and still going strong.  I still haven't scraped on any speed bumps. 

Long Term Report - March 26, 2005:
I rode the bike for about 3,000 miles at stock height over nine months and was miserable as I had a number of close calls while stopping (5'10", 153 lbs., 31" pant inseam).  Parking lots, gravel roads, and awkward stops were nightmares for me.  I almost sold the bike after riding with my friends (who all have cruisers and have their knees about up to their chest when they stop) at Biketoberfest 2003.  I was riding “The Loop” (see link in the resources section) two up and they decided to pull over on a small gravel patch on a steep slope.  I almost lost it a few times.  I started doing research over the following month.  I ordered a link and side-stand and lowered my 2003 VFR800A back in March of 2004 (before Bike Week).  I have put on about 5,500+ miles since lowering it and have not had a single issue.  I have gone over speed bumps of massive proportions two up at a good clip by accident and not scraped.  I have not had any issues with the side-stand lean angle.  The handling is the same as stock, no difference in cornering or highway speeds and beyond.  I now have my feet flat on the ground, yes 1.2” makes a big difference, and a little bend in my knees.  I have not had one close call since.

Total Time:  ~2 Hour
Total Cost:  ~$365.00 (Lowering Link, Risers, and side-stand)


Run-time:  1:50, 26.8MB

You need a simple car alarm, I recommend the $69.99 CrimeStopper CS-2000II from Crutchfield, now discontinued, just Google for a small basic alarm.  You will also need a few $19.99 piezoelectric sirens from Best Buy Car Audio Shop, two $2.99 diodes from a local electronics shop, and a soldering iron.  Just follow the wiring instructions that come with the alarm, use the diodes to isolate the left and right side flashers, so you do not cross energize the flashers during normal operations, and connect them to the flasher relay from the alarm.  The rest is simple power and ground and you are done.  If you would like you can wire up the ignition kill as well, I did.  I recommend zip tying the alarm brain up under the rear tail support.  This will keep it away from any water when washing the bike or riding in a monsoon.  The piezoelectric sirens can be easily hidden within the body work in the dash and under the seat.  They are extremely loud and the flashers are a good attention getter.  I would recommend against using the auto arm feature.  Just arm it when you need to using the key fob.  Otherwise if it is armed at bike week and the Harleys set it off, you know you will find your bike on its side and beat for being annoying.  The alarm has a dual stage shock sensor that is adjustable.  This should cover you, now granted someone has to hear the alarm that cares, which is rare, but this is just one step in a series of security steps to encourage the would-be thief to move to an easier target.  It is very good for traveling, just park your bike close to your room and you will hear the alarm.

Total Time:  2 Hours
Total Cost:  ~$115

Hazard Lights

Run-time:  0:24, 6.3MB

Why don't motorcycles have hazard lights (OK, 2004+ VFR's now have them)?  This one is easy.  You need a two prong flasher relay from any automotive store, two diodes (NTE5812 Rectifier Diode, 6A 100V is what i used but any 4A 50V diode or better should do), and a switch (switch is optional as you can just unplug the wire from the flasher under the seat when not in use).  Using removable wire leads, take power from the battery with a post connector (battery +) and run that wire to a switch if you would like or one of the flasher posts using a removable wire connector.  Connect another removable wire lead to the other flasher post (you can hardwire this but then replacing the flasher will be a pain) and split that wire into two runs by soldering the wire to the two diodes to make a split be sure to insulate the diodes with tape or a heat shrink wire tubing.  The diodes allow electricity to flow in only one direction, use a multi-meter to make sure the diodes are allowing current to flow from the flasher toward the turn signals and not the other way round.  The diodes prevent the left and right turn signals from cross energizing each other during normal operation.  Now you have two diodes connected to one wire from the flasher.  Run one diode to the left blinker wire and the other gets spliced into the right blinker wire.  Splicing into the rear turn signals will energize the front as well.  You can disconnect the power wire from the flasher relay and tuck the wires away under the seat (see video above) or you can run a switch between the battery and the flasher to make things a little easier to access.  Be sure to use wire heat shrink wrap or electrical tape to insulate all your connections and diodes.  My thought on the hazard lights were that if you are on the side of the road, you cannot leave your lights on for long without draining the battery.  The hazards will give you the protection of being seen without draining the battery by running the headlights.  Adding a switch and hiding it up under the dash gives you the ability to turn on the hazards when you want, rather than having to go under the seat to connect the flasher.


Total Time:  45 Minutes
Total Cost:  ~$10 for Flasher, Wire, and Diodes

Rear Turn Signals into Marker Lights

Run-time:  0:15, 4.6MB

This one is a straight forward modification, you just need a spool of wire (14, 16, or 18 gauge will do) and a post quick connect like the gold one shown above.  Simply splice in to the middle wire of the front left and right turn signal wires by cutting around the casing and again a few millimeters down with a razor blade, be careful not to cut yourself.  Then cut the casing connecting the rings and remove that section of casing.  Take the wire to be run to the rear and wrap it around the exposed wire and solder it in place.  Then wrap tightly with electrical tape.  Zip tie the wires from the left and right center wires back to the rear of the bike.  There are a series of wires that run along the frame on the left side to the battery area, just add these wires to them zip tying as you go.  When you get to the battery area, loosen the rear seat plastic, on the left side you will find a wire run from the rear lights to the battery area.  Run your wires from the battery area up with the wire run, zip tying as you go. 

Then when you have the wires run to the rear look at the turn signal connectors, you will see the center wire is missing from the rear turn signal light connector.  Yet if you look at the posts for the light, the center post exists.  Use a voltmeter to determine left and right marker lights by turning on the turn signals (if you didn’t mark which wire is which when you started running them from the front), the power to the marker wire is cut when the 35w flasher is activated automatically.  Use the clip pictured above to attach to the end of the wire and set it in the center slot in the rear turn signal connector clip.  Zip tie the new wire to the existing left and right wires and replace the turn signal connector and you are done.  The rear turn signals are now wired just like the front and can be removed and reconnected just as you could before the modification.  This modification really improves rear visibility.  I have also added a LED brake light and tail light license plate frame as well.  With the stock tail and brake lights, the added LED tail and brake lights, and now the yellow marker lights, this bike is very hard to miss from the rear in good weather or bad, day or night.  Check out the video for an example of how it will operate post modification.  If you have trouble finding the right size quick connect pictured above, send me an email and I will give you my address.  If you mail me a SASE (Self Addressed Stamped Envelope) I will mail you two of them for free.  I have about 956 left, the store only sold them by the case.

Total Time:  1 Hour
Total Cost:  <$10 - Parts from Local Electronics Shop

Side Markers

OK, let's be honest with each other, the round reflectors on the forks and mud flap, they came off your Huffy.  There is just no need for that, hey... hey, take those playing cards out of the spokes and listen up or you are getting a timeout.  Here is what you can to do.  On the back of the VFR's mud flap below the license plate, at the bottom, there is a reflector, which you need to order two.  Take a look at the red reflector, it has a post for the bolt and a second plastic post to hold the reflector in position and prevent spinning.  Now take off the round reflectors, put the new reflector's bolt post through the hole and move the reflector so the plastic "stop" post is against the top of the metal bracket and reuse the nut from the round reflector.  Now for the front, you need to order two yellow front reflectors off of a 2003 CBR1100XX, they are the same as the rear ones in every way, but yellow.  When you remove your front round reflectors you will notice that the reflector bracket has two holes, one for the bolt and one for the "stop" post.  The VFR's front reflector brackets were designed for these rectangular reflectors.  One last touch, when you take off the round reflectors on the mud flap you will expose two silver rivets for the reflector bracket.  Take some fine grit sandpaper and scuff them a bit, now use some paint or a permanent marker to black them out.  Now with the four new rectangular reflectors in place and the playing cards out of your spokes, you can ride with the big boys. 

Total Time:  30 Minutes
Total Cost:  $27.53 - Ordered the 4 New Reflectors from a Dealer

Horn Replacement - Updated August 4, 2005

Tired of the moped horn that ships with your VFR?  Tired of cagers not being able to hear it as they try to kill you... repeatedly?  Well have I got a solution for you!  Go to Advance Discount Auto Parts (or any shop for that matter) and purchase a 132dB "Freeway Blaster" horn.   There is no wiring to be done, it is a simple swap out, well fairly simple.   Use a 10mm adjustable head angle ratcheting box wrench (Sears Craftsman) to remove the old horn, there are two slide clips for the wires, just pull them off.  Now slide the clips on the posts of the new horn.  The "Freeway Blaster" I purchased is not polarity specific, so hook the positive and negative up to the posts, no need to try and figure out which post is which.  Now put the mounting bolt of the new horn in the mounting hole where you removed the old horn.  The new horn is larger than the old horn so you need to bend the bracket out a little.  Also you will need and adjustable head ratcheting box wrench to get behind the bracket to get the bigger horn back on.  It is a bit of a knuckle buster getting the bolt on the post and getting it tightened down.  My VFR now sounds just like a Buick.

OK, this still is not doing it for me.  I need more, would semi air horns fit on the VFR?  Ari, from the VFR list, has a project on the books for Fiamm horns.  Depending on how that goes I may head down that road.

Total Time:  1 Hour (Knuckle Buster)
Total Cost:  $14.84

Securing Your Gear


If you have the Nolan Classic 100e Plus helmet (great flip face) then you cannot use the D-ring helmet hooks under the seat.  But here is an easy solution.  Go to Home Depot and buy three feet of 1/4" plastic coated cable (making two helmet cables), cable stop crimp blocks, and wiring heat shrink wrap.  Cut the wire in half and use the stop crimp blocks to create loops at each end and hammer the blocks shut.  Then slip the heat shrink over the blocks and use a heat gun or hair dryer to shrink it down.  Now everything is plastic coated and will not scratch your paint.  Connect one loop to the D-ring hook on the bike, then run the other end up through the helmet and out the visor opening and hook the other loop over the D-ring hook.   The helmet hangs visor up and will help keep it dry if it rains.  Now for the jackets, I had an extra six foot Belkin computer security cable with $500 theft guarantee, but you could do the same as the helmet cables.  I run the cable through the sleeves of our jackets and rest them on the saddle.  I then pad lock the cable to the open area on the passenger foot peg strut on the right (away from the chain).  It makes life so much easier not having to lug around your jacket with CE armor in the Florida heat.  When you are done, the helmet cables, jackets cable, and lock tuck nicely away under the right side seat alcove. 

Total Time:  30 Minutes
Total Cost:  ~$20

Protect Your Tank

Can you tell where they are?  The picture on the right shows the location of the guards in the picture on the left.

As we all know riding involves a lot of shifting your weight, well if you are having fun in the twisties it does.  That means friction against your paint.  Add a tank bag and your paint takes a real beating.  What to do?  Add a tank protector pad?  That pad only protects your tank from your jacket, causes a waxing nightmare, and the adhesive that holds it on may damage your paint anyway.  Well what about 3M adhesive film?  Good stuff, but when it gets dull and scratched, then what?  Peal it off and you are left with trying to remove the adhesive without damaging the paint. 

So what then to do?  You can order static cling clear film without adhesive from 3M and others (Google is your friend).  These sheets are held in place by static and they work great.  Once they are on they are invisible and they are really on there.  You really have to pick to get them to come off.  But that is the great thing, you can take them on and off as much as you want.  I take them off to wax the bike then using nothing more than a water spray bottle and an old credit card I squeegee them back on.  Once they dry, they don't come off unless you pick them off.  When they get scratched up just take them off, order a new pack, and use your old guards to trace out your new ones with a grease pencil or dry erase pen.

Total Time:  1 Hour (Trace, Cut Out, and Apply)
Total Cost:  ~$10.00

Vista Cruise

Run-time:  2:52, 39.6MB

This is an easy one.  The Honda Vista Cruise requires little or no modifications.  There is enough space between the grip and the ignition housing that the Vista Cruise just fits in perfect (Vista Cruise model 07-4045, 7/8", Honda Dual Throttle Cable).  You may need to tighten the throttle cable sleeve nuts under the ignition housing on the grip so that they are parallel.   The width of the Vista Cruise foot is the exact distance between the nut sides and if one of the edges is pointed at the other the space will be too small.  You may need to move one of the nuts to put pressure on the foot.  There is one thing you need to do to the grip.  The rubber lip by the housing needs to be tucked in behind the white plastic lip of the throttle itself.  If you do not have risers on your bike you will also need to grind down the thumb lever  so that it doesn't hit the tank when turning hard over.  Use a Dremel to grind it down to the angle of the tank and then polish the end.  If you have risers, no worries, you're done.  The nice thing is that your thumb knuckle sits under the lever and when you roll the throttle forward your thumb knuckle unlocks it.  Even without unlocking, rolling the throttle forward in a panic situation isn't an issue as the friction is just enough to hold the throttle in place at speed (firsthand experience).

Total Time:  15 Minutes
Total Cost:  $20.00 Plus Tax at My Dealer

PAIR, Variable Air Intake Valve and Snorkel Modification


Ease to do and it smoothens out the power band.  This will give you a little less than a horse of extra power, it will reduce throttle chop and help the flat spot between 5,000 and 5,500 RPM.  The dyno before and after are on VFR Discussion http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/55729-vfr-track-bike/Lift the gas tank as you would to replace the air filter.  Remove the vacuum hose from the  variable air intake and plug both the tube and the valve using a rubber end caps from your standard wire shelving unit (just go to Lowes and in the shelving isle you will see them).  I also pulled out the snorkel for the air box (you just pull it out).  Then disconnect the PAIR Valve wiring harness, (http://johnny.chadda.se/article/pair-and-flapper-mod-with-bonus-snorkel-mod-for-vfr), done.  Also on the air box you will see a rubber snorkel, you can remove that by just pulling it out while twisting a little.  This will improve air intake, see below to improve exhaust flow.  So far MPG is the same but the mid-range is much smoother, YMMV.

Total Time:  20 Minutes
Total Cost:  $0.00

Exhaust Baffle Removal


This one is one of the more difficult modification to do without needing a welder.  Now if you have a welder and can weld, this should be a snap.  First let me say I did not remove the catalytic converter.  You need a welder to properly remove the cat to reduce back pressure fully, although this will help when combined with the VAIV, PAIR, and Snorkel removal in the above modification.  The pictures during the build were lost, so I can just show you the after pictures.  You will need the following tools:  Dremel with flex shaft attachment, Dremel reinforced cut-off wheels, two 16" needle nose pliers, needle nose pliers, razor cutter, Dremel sanding discs and a metal file. 

Start by loosening the bolts where the exhaust meets the cat and remove your rear fairing.  Then remove the hanger bolts for the exhaust and lower it onto the rear tire.  Remove the shields and make sure you have the rubber tab inserts and the two rubber hex spacers (small items look around).  You can then remove the exhaust (it can be done without removing the rear tire, just wiggle it). 

Now the fun begins...  Cut along the weld seam for the end cap but cut across at a 45° angle where the end cap shield nut support is located so you can reattach your end cap shield.  See first picture, bottom exhaust outlet, you can see the only part of the end cap left.  Once that is done, use the cut-off wheel to go around the baffle following the holes in a row about 2" at a time.  You will then need to use the pliers to fold in the baffle to get it past the end cap portion you did not cut off for the end cap shield retaining nut.  (Now if you can weld, just cut the cap off and pull the whole thing out and weld the cap back on and done.)  Keep cutting the baffle like this all the way to the end using the Dremel flex shaft and extended needle nose pliers as you get deeper.  Now reaseble in reverse. 

The exhaust sounds like a ALMS car rumble from the V-4, but not as loud as a Harley.  Love it!

Total Time:   4 Hours
Total Cost:  $0.00

Make Your VFR a True Solo Seat


I don't ride two up anymore so I thought some cosmetic adjustments should be made.  Our VFRs come with the passenger seat cover and passenger grab rail mount covers.  Simply remove the passenger grab rails if they are on and replace them with the color matched caps that came with the bike.  Put the passenger seat cover on.  Next remove the passenger foot pegs.  If you have an ABS model you will need to remove the damping adjustment knob bracket and remove the rear fairing bolt just above; then pull the fairing out a little and tuck the adjustment knob away in the rear fairing (see pictures).  Now you will need to move the side reflectors from the mud flap to the holes where the passenger foot peg brackets connected to the rear frame.  Now the side looks much nicer and you can clearly see that beautiful single sided swing arm. 

Now to clean up the back.  You will need an adhesive white LED flexible light strip from AutoZone.  Disconnect the license plate light wiring harness and remove the mud flap.  Using the existing most inward mud flap mount holes use two wide adjustable "L" brackets (car stereo universal mount type are easiest to use and offer lateral adjustment or just bend ones from Lowes) with some bolts, washers, and lock nuts to make the plate mount.  If you have a plate frame it helps to support the plate.  I used bolt reflectors to eliminate the rear reflector, you may add a small bracket from the plate to attach the larger original reflector should you so desire.  Next clean the rear pan above the plate with rubbing alcohol or Windex and stick the LED to it just in front of the plate; run the wires up through the other mounting hole and zip tie or tape as needed to secure.  Connect the LED strip leads to the license plate light wiring harness and you are done.

Total Time:   1 Hour
Total Cost:  $8.00


Ybor City Bike Fest 2003 - Tampa Bay, FL

I was riding two up with my wife.  My father in-law (taking the pictures) was riding the red Harley right in front of my VFR.  These shots are pre lowering and pre reflector swap out.

My wife and I at the marina.  Shot of the VFR loaded with saddlebags and sport trunk.  My wife loves the sport trunk because she can lean back and enjoy the ride.  The two of us can get 4 days of clothes and toiletries in the saddlebags and sport trunk (we don’t pack light either)


Biketoberfest 2004 - Daytona, FL

I went up with 5 other riders on a Harley Road King, 2 Yamaha FJRs, a BMW, and an Arlen Ness Victory (Nice bike).

We stopped at the Speedway first to see the V-twin vendor display.


Then we hit Main Street.

Chica's Unicorn as seen on Discovery Channel's Great Biker Build-Off.

Corry Ness's bike.

OCC's Trim Spa bike.

OCC Dixie Choppers bike.> 

2005 O'ahu Hawaii

While in Hawaii on our honeymoon we rented a Harley Duce for a day and rode the island of Oahu.  We put 300 miles riding around the island.  This is a picture of HWhile in Hawaii on our honeymoon we rented a Harley Duce for a day and rode the island of Oahu.  We put 300 miles riding around the island.  This is a picture of Heather when we went to the Dole plantation hedge maze.

Heather and I stopped on the North Shore (the big breaks are to the west more).  Great weather and the Duce is very comfortable, I really like that Harley."75">

East Shore.

We stayed at the Hilton Hawaiian Village.

Picture of the water from our balcony.

Facing downtown from our balcony.

Honolulu pictures from our hotel balcony.


Bike Week 2005 - Daytona, FL

The crew this time was a group of 5 bikes again.  Harley Road King, Yamaha FJR, BMW, a Suzuki and my VFR.

Skeleton bike with hidden gas tank.

Another angle of the skeleton bike.

Our local boy (Melbourne, FL) Billy Lane and his 2005 road show.  In the background is his most recent Biker Build-Off winner, note the hood ornament on the tank.  Billy was nowhere to be found but we have been running into him at bars around Melbourne and Cocoa Beach for years.  Nice guy.

OCC's Hooters Bike.


Bike Week 2006 - Daytona, FL
Tampa Bikefest 2006 - Tampa, FL

Trick Harley V-ROD, I'd actually consider owning this Harley.

Rook's bikes.  He ended up looking like an ass on Build or Bust when he tried to build a bike with Russell Mitchell.  That being said, the ass is creative, look at the silver bike.  They removed the back cylinder and put the transmission up there.

Honda now has airbags.  I want air conditioning next.

Roland Sands of PM.  The most uncomfortable seat ever.

My customer (Corvette Racing) and one of the products I manage, MotoDrive.

In the immortal words of Denis Miller:  "That's the news for this Saturday night and I... am... out of here."

Tampa Bikefest, look a Suzuki with a single sided swing arm.  If only Honda made a bike from the factory with a SSS, oh, wait...

For when that first Harley motor breaks down you have a spare.

A chopper with a SSS...


The Wolf, The Dragon, and Cherohala Skyway
May 4th, 5th, and 6th 2007
... and so it began...  The 1,600 mile trek in 72 hours began Thursday evening from Orlando, setting out with the saddlebags and sport trunk packed with bottles of water in the tank bag.  Eight hours later we were in Canton, GA to stay at our friend's new place.
Scott, Mike, Nick, Jeff and I headed out Friday to Blood Mountain to ride Wolf Pen Gap, 371 turns in 36 miles.  It was a beautiful day.  I don't know if it was the fact the Wolf was in the dry and the Dragon was in the rain, but I had more fun on the Wolf.
Saturday, the weather turned bad, but we were going to ride Deal's Gap and slay The Dragon... in the rain.  Yes, ride the Dragon, 318 turns in 11 miles, for the first time, in a downpour, and with gravel washed out in to the corners.  So it turned out okay, a little unnerving at times, but very fun.
We ran the Cherohala Skyway after the Dragon and the rain let up.  But we didn't have the luck of the Irish.  We got to the top and then experienced whiteout conditions.  You could not see more than  one or two car lengths ahead of you.
Map NC Side   Map TN Side

We stopped on our way to ride the Wolf.  There are a lot of chicken farms in GA.  The smell, my God the smell.  On a side note the B-B-Q is outstanding.

We stopped at the Deal's Gap Motorcycle Resort.  We loaded up on T-shirts and stickers.  I took the bags and trunk off the Viffer so I just used Scott's bags to store stuff.  Other people's saddlebags are very convenient.

The only shot on Cherohala, note the clouds rolling in.  We traveled the rest of the ride in complete whiteout conditions.  I could not see more than a car's length in front of me.

Nick, Scott, Mike, and Jeff.

Motley crew:  Sean, Heather, Charity, Nick, Whitey, Mike, and Scott.  Jeff's Harley broke down on the way back from the Wolf (bad regulator), so he could not join us.

We started our run and stopped at an overlook.

Scott and I.



The rain is letting up, let's go.

From here we raced up the loop to TWO (Two Wheels Only) resort.

We paid homage to the tree of shame and hoped we wouldn't add anything to it.

TWO, nice place.  There was a VFR rally going on that weekend so I was nice to see a lot of other Viffers on the road.

TWO is located in Suches, Georgia.

We stopped at the dam.  This is where they filmed the dam sequence in The Fugitive.

Mike at TWO.

This dam looks to be in  very bad shape. Huge cracks, exposed rebar, I wouldn't buy property down stream below 75ft above the waterline.

We are looking at a bunch of VFRs that were arriving out of frame.  Turns out there was a VFR rally up there that weekend.  It was nice to see so many Viffers in one place.

The Dragon assault begins.  Whitey led us.  Only Scott had been on the Dragon once before.

Apparently Scott's boot purchase over the Internet lead to some nice but uncomfortable boots.

Scott and Charity

Jeff enjoying the lounge chairs.

Heather and I, in the rain, first time on the Dragon with gravel washouts on the road.  FUN!

So is our food ready yet?

This is overlooking the dam and waterfall at TWO Wheels where we ate lunch.



Nick, me, Scott, Jeff, Mike and waterfall.  You would think we had never seen a waterfall.


Can we go now?

Scott and his bike.

Top of the Wolf.  We stopped at the store.

We managed to slay the Dragon in the rain.

Bikes still there, check.  Get picture to be sure, check.

View from the overlook.

Go Gators!


Bike Week 2008 - Daytona, FL
It is that time of year again.  I am still trying to figure out what my next Sport Tourer will be, but that didn't stop me from test riding the absurd.  It rained and stormed Thursday night and Friday so that limited the rides and BMW didn't bring out an R1200S.  Will the rumors on a new 2009 VFR be true, well Honda wasn't talking.

My friend Dan on basically a snowmobile with three wheels. 

My friend John on a V8 barstool.  No demo rides for this one, too bad.

My friend John on the Boss Hoss 350CI 5.7 Liter V8 motorcycle...  What?  You can demo these?  Sign us up.

What did I get myself into?  1,200+ lbs and I weigh 153 wet.

Yeah, okay there, Jesse James. 

Automatic two speed, V8, and it handled very nicely.  I was able to corner well with it.

Nice Honda picture set up...

Marketing didn't see that one coming...

Manish and I rode into the infield to watch the pre-races.

That Saturday was the big race and Scott and I knew one of the racers.  This is Scott and Nate Kern who rides for BMW.

We had passes and were in the pits for a while and then we went to the front stands.

Run-time:  0:49, 843KB
We ended the day in the midfield stands.


May 2008 Red Rock Canyon - Las Vegas, NV

My manager and I went out to Las Vegas for Interop 2008 and while out there we rented Harleys (I had a bagger) and rode to Red Rock. 

Red Rock is a great park with two lane 13 mile loop going one-way.  Lots of great curves and elevation changes.  We did the loop once and stopped to see the sights.  Then we ran it to have fun, it was very much like Wolf Pen Gap.

Then I rode up to Mt. Charleston.  Almost 12,000 ft at the top and great views.  Yes, that is snow behind me in May.  It was 100 degrees in the city and with full gear on, it felt great to get up in the mountains.

View of Las Vegas from the Shadow Bar at the top of the Palms.


Orange County Sheriff's Office PAL 2010 Ride

Orlando Harley

Dan Haggerty aka Grizzly Adams


Who's guarding the doughnut shop?

Which one of these is not like the others?

I shot PoV video for the ride.

Dan and the Chrome Divas

Run-time:  0:20, 16MB



Sugarloaf Mountain Ride
April 24, 2010

Leesburg Bike Fest Run

Run-time:  0:20, 16MB 
Nice bike... so how are you getting home?


YouTube Videos



Discussion Groups
• VFR List
• VFR Discussion Group
• VFR World
• Honda VFR Club

• Deal's Gap
• Deal's Gap Forum
• Iron Butt Association

• Sport Touring Net
• Adventure Rider
• Bob Is The Oil Guy

• Motorcycle Roads
Factory Specifications
• Oil Filter Cross Reference
DuPont™ Teflon™ Multi-Use Lubricant Datasheet
• Bike Parts Finder
• Power Consumption
• Motorcycle Escape Review
• The Auto Channel Review
• Motorcyclist Review
• MC Review

• Sportbike Funnies

Parts and Accessories
• Sigma Cycle
• Service Honda
• Dennis Kirk
• Competition Accessories
• Cycle Mall
• Knee Draggers
• Phillips Motorsports Group

• Exotic Sportbike
• Motorcycle Superstore
• Moto Depot
• Moto Race
• Riders Discount

• David Silver Spares
• Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse
• Ron Ayers Motorsports Superstore
• Targa
• Custom LED
• Competition Werkes
• Fieldsheer Motorsports Apparel
• Nolan Helmets
• New Enough

• Whitehorse

Have a good link?  Send it to me and I'll post it, see the top of the page for my email address.


VFR Specifications


Unique features
  • Revolutionary VTEC combines the power characteristics of both two-valve and four-valve cylinder head designs. The engine runs on two-valves-per-cylinder below 6800 rpm and then switches to four-valves-per-cylinder, delivering significantly stronger low-end and mid-range torque, while maintaining the Interceptor's impressive high-rpm power delivery.
  • The Interceptorฎ meets the California Air Resources Board (CARB) 2008 emissions standards.
  • Silent-type cam-chain drive eliminates mechanical gear noise. The system features a set of dual tensioners that maintain optimal pressure and lubrication for the camshaft chains, ensuring quiet operation and long life.
  • Programmed fuel injection (PGM-FI) uses four laser-drilled 12-hole injectors, for finer fuel atomization, improved combustion efficiency, reduced emissions and increased power.
  • Iridium-tip spark plugs are ignited by compact high-energy coil-on-plug spark plug caps that produce a strong, high-voltage spark.
  • Unique NR-style center-up exhaust system incorporates two stainless steel mufflers tucked snugly under the Interceptor's tail section.
  • Clutch features an offset outside friction plate for quiet operation when starting from a stop.
  • Three-phase coil-spring damper in the transmission provides for smooth upshifts.
  • Large-diameter, 43mm Honda Multi-Action System (HMAS) cartridge front fork provides enhanced handling under all riding conditions.
  • Four brilliant multi-reflector headlights employ two centrally positioned H4 low/high beams positioned under two widely spaced H7 high beams for brilliant nighttime illumination.
  • 5.8-gallon fuel capacity.


  • Compact, 781cc DOHC 90 V-4 with an oversquare bore and stroke of 72mm x 48mm.
  • Combustion chambers feature an 11.6:1 compression ratio and are fed by programmed fuel injection through short, straight intake ports.
  • Interceptor engine serves as a stressed member of the pivotless frame, which features specially designed engine mounting bolts tuned to work in harmony with the damping characteristics of the frame.
  • Aluminum composite cylinder sleeves are high-pressure-formed from sintered aluminum powder impregnated with ceramic and graphite. The composite sleeves provide better wear resistance and superior heat dissipation compared to conventional sleeves.
  • Cast aluminum pistons feature LUB-Coat solid lubricant to minimize friction between piston and cylinder wall.
  • Auto-enriching system is integrated into PGM-FI module, optimizing the air/fuel mixture on cold starts and eliminating the need for a manual choke.
  • Solenoid-operated dual-air-intake-duct design keeps one duct closed during low-speed operation to ensure optimal control of air intake velocity.
  • Dual side-mounted radiators maximize cooling efficiency using low-air-pressure areas created by side cowls to draw cooling air through the radiators. During low-speed operation, a thermostat-controlled left-side fan pulls cooling air across the radiator into the fairing, keeping hot air away from the rider.
  • Rugged 125mm-diameter eight-plate clutch offers light weight and high load capacity.
  • Exceptionally smooth-shifting six-speed transmission.


  • Triple-box-section twin-spar aluminum frame features a tuned, pivotless design that isolates the engine-mounted swingarm from the frame and contributes to handling comfort.
  • Interceptor's beautiful Pro Armฎ single-side cast aluminum swingarm, mounted to the engine, provides an optimal balance of rigidity and tuned flex for superb handling.
  • Pro-Linkฎ rear suspension features a 40mm gas-charged HMAS shock with 4.7 inches of travel and adjustable spring preload and rebound damping. (ABS-equipped model has a convenient spring preload adjustment knob.) The Pro-Link arm is anchored directly to a cast aluminum bracket on the rear of the engine case.
  • Linked Braking System (LBS™) uses a second master cylinder and a proportional control valve (PCV) to couple the three-piston calipers of the dual-front and single-rear brake discs for even better braking feel, while providing the peace of mind of an LBS system. Using the front brake lever activates the outer two pistons of the left-side front caliper, all three pistons of the right-side caliper and the center piston of the rear caliper. Rear pedal engagement activates the two outer pistons of the rear caliper and the center piston in the left-front caliper.
  • The Interceptor's 296mm floating front brake discs feature a lightweight seven-spoke inner rotor design.
  • U-section cast aluminum wheels are light and reduce unsprung weight.
  • The six-spoke, 3.5-inch-wide front wheel carries a 120/70ZR-17 radial tire. The five-spoke, 5.5-inch rear wheel sports a wide, low-profile 180/55ZR-17 radial tire.

Additional Features

  • The Interceptor's sleek, aerodynamic bodywork is functional as well as beautiful.
  • Air flowing through a central air vent under the front windshield provides cool air to the rider at low speeds and increases rider comfort at higher speeds.
  • A second model is available with Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) for even better braking control.
  • High-tech instrument display includes electronic tachometer, LCD readouts for speedometer, air temperature, coolant temperature, odometer, two tripmeters, and clock.
  • ACG output of 497 watts.
  • Detachable seat offers access to space to carry U-lock and other necessities. (Lock not included.)
  • Removable passenger seat cowl.
  • Adjustable brake and clutch levers.
  • Removable Injection-molded nylon passenger grabrails are comfortable to the touch in cold or hot weather.
  • Folding aerodynamic mirrors.


  • Model:  VFR800FI ABS
  • Engine Type:  781cc liquid-cooled 90ฐ V-4
  • Bore and Stroke:  72mm x 48mm
  • Compression Ratio:  11.6:1
  • Valve Train:  VTEC DOHC; four valves per cylinder
  • Carburetion:  PGM-FI with automatic enrich circuit
  • Ignition:  Computer-controlled digital with three-dimensional mapping and electronic advance
    Transmission:  Close-ratio six-speed
  • Final Drive:  #530 O-ring-sealed chain
  • Suspension:  Front:  43mm HMAS cartridge fork with spring preload adjustability; 4.3 inches travel
    Rear:  Pro Arm single-side swingarm with Pro-Link single HMAS gas-charged shock with spring preload and rebound damping adjustability; 4.7 inches travel
  • Brakes:  Front:  Dual full-floating 296mm discs with Linked Braking System (LBS) three-piston calipers
    Rear:  Single 256mm disc with LBS three-piston caliper; ABS
  • Tires:  Front:  120/70ZR-17 Dunlop D220
    Rear:  180/55ZR-17 Dunlop D220
  • Wheelbase: 57.4 inches
  • Rake (Caster Angle): 25.3ฐ
  • Trail:  100mm (3.9 inches)
  • Seat Height:  30.45 inches
  • Dry Weight:  481 pounds 
  • Fuel Capacity:  5.8 gallons, including 0.8-gallon reserve
  • Color:  Red
  • My Fuel Mileage:  40/52/49 (my low/high/average)
  • The following are from on-line sources (third party):
    Horsepower:  100.3 at rear wheel at 10,500 rpm
    Torque:  55.4 at rear wheel at 8,600 rpm
    Corrected 1/4 mile:  11.14 sec at 122.00 mph
    0 - 60:  3.2 sec
    0 - 100:  7.1 sec
    Top Speed:  170.3 mph at 12,000 rpm in 12.2 sec on a dyno


All trademarks and copyrights are the property of their respective owners.
Copyright ฉ 1994 - 2014, all rights reserved.