Site Owner: Sean T Murphy,
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Lowering Your VFR800 or How to
Make Your Legs Feel Longer
Adding a Car Alarm or Put the Ignition Punch
Down, Step Away From the Bike, and Nobody Gets Hurt
Adding Hazard Lights or Sir, The Lights Are
Blinking and Flashing... Flashing and Blinking
Wiring Up Rear Turn Signals to Act as
Marker Lights (Like the Front) or For the Love of God Don't Hit Me
Changing Your Side Markers or I Don't
Want to Ride a Huffy
Changing Your Horn or Land Yacht...
Securing Your Jackets and Non D-Ring Helmets or I
Don't Want to Carry This Crap Around During Bike Week
Invisible and Removable Tank Protection or
Scratches... We Don't Need No Stinking Scratches, Man
Adding a Vista Cruise Throttle Lock or I
Feel the Need... The Need for Steady Speed
PAIR Valve, Variable Air Intake Valve and Snorkel or I Don't Want to Hear
It... The EPA's
Energy Star Program Approved a Gas Powered Alarm Clock... No Really, Google It
Exhaust Baffle Removal or Can You Hear Me Now?
Make your VFR a True Solo Seat or How Often Do You Ride Two Up?
Travel Pictures or Look Kids... Big Ben,
Ybor City Bike Fest 2003
Bike Week 2005
Bike Week 2006
The Wolf, The Dragon, and Cherohala 2007
Red Rock 2008Red Rock 2008
Orange County Sheriff's
Office PAL 2010 Ride
Resources... We Have
Resources?Resources... We Have
My VFR's Specifications or Do You Really Care at
*Note: The information on this page
is not intended as instructional. I am not a professional mechanic nor do
I play one on TV, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night. These
modifications can be dangerous and even deadly if improperly implemented.
You should always consult a Honda certified mechanic for all modifications.
I accept no liability for any use or misuse of this site (no good deed goes
unpunished). This fine print brought to you by the Law Offices of Dewey,
Cheatem & Howe. "I'm not even supposed to be here
today." --Dante Hicks, Clerks
Updated June 4, 2009
Feel free to email me with any questions you may have, see
The links, risers, and
side stands are made by Ron Drake. The lowering links are made of
aircraft grade aluminum and his side-stands are cut down OEM stands.
He is also selling risers (I have risers on mine, no modifications needed to
install them). The side stand really looks good.
Bonus round for all you Engineers / Quality Control gurus out there, Ron is
a Digital Six Sigma Black Belt:
***Click on thumbnail images to
view high resolution photos***
This modification will lower your bike 1.5 inches. OK, you'll need a set of Allen wrenches, box
wrenches, and socket set. Not to
worry, this is fairly easy.
Note: You do not
need to remove any body work.
First put the bike on the center stand.
You may need a friend to help make it easier although you could do this
by yourself. But why not hang out with a friend?
Now we get to the meat of
this modification. Above is the original dog bone.
This is a little out of focus, but you want
a box wrench on the back nut and use an 8mm Allen hex socket on a ratchet to loosen
up the bolt.
Picture of the two nuts
on the back. The first is at the bottom of the triangle behind the
muffler bolts in the foreground. The second is to the right
between the two headers. Use a box wrench to hold these nuts in place
while you use sockets to remove the 14mm bolt and 8mm Allen bolt.
Before you remove the bolts, put boards
under the rear wheel as the wheel will drop down. You will also
use the boards as a lever to move the wheel up to connect the new,
longer dog bone.
Dog bone removed. Just place the new
one in and bolt up the left one first (the one that attaches to the
motor). Then have someone lift the
board until the right hole meets the dog bone hole (the one at the
bottom of the triangle). Put the bolt
through and tighten them down to specs.
Here are all the torque specifications for
the rear. The blue box is the area of focus.
Comparison of the two dog bones, Honda's on the top.
Note the collars in the top dog bone. Push those out and put them
in the new dog bone.
||Here is a tip, take two canvas bags and
fill them each with about 30 pounds of weights, then hang them off the
struts for the saddle bags. This makes the bike's weight neutral
on the center stand and will make lowering the front easier or have a
friend lean on the tail. With the
bike on the center stand and the weights on the back saddle bag mounts,
loosen the bolts for your clip-ons. Then loosen the four pinch
bolts on the fork tube of the triple tree. You will want someone to hold the back so it doesn't drop
down. Then the person in the back, in my case my wife (thanks,
Honey), can pull up on the back end lowering the front. If you go
too low, just push down on the back end. The extra weights you
added makes it really easy. Just use a caliper to measure 68mm of
fork tube above the top triple clamp.
forks extend 41mm above the triple clamp. Raise up the forks to
about 68 mm, this still gives you 4.3 inches of travel for the forks
before the lower triple clamp, which is the max front suspension travel.
Now there are two black metal hose guides under the oil cooler on the
left and right, just to be safe push them upward, they'll bend up.
This will make sure they don't hit your tire guard if you fully bottom
out your front suspension.
Here is a little trick... On the bottom of
the oil pan is a fin that protects the drain bolt. There are two
other fins in front and in back. Take a level and put it across
those three points, they are all the same length, and check to see if
your lowering job is level.
Side stand: Take the spring off,
a pair of Channel Lock pliers work well. Then remove the 14mm nut.
Then use a 8mm wrench to remove the position sensor bolt. Then
remove the 14mm bolt. Repeat in reverse for the new one. You
will need to remove the Allen bolt for the fairing right by the side
stand so you can flex it out of the way to put the side stand sensor
back in place. Ignore the side stand in the middle. Ron's is
the short one on the right and stock is on the left.
Enjoy your new longer legs.
One last thing, you will need to adjust your pre-load on the rear shock
as the default setting before being lowered will now have no tension on
the shock. For the 2002+ ABS models you will need to tighten the
knob 6 - 7 turns once you feel tension to be set back to default stock
setting (adjust accordingly from there). For the non-ABS models
you will need to get your wrench out and adjust the pre-load as well.
Long Term Report - September 15,
32,000 miles no issues with height or side-stand.
I was at the local Honda shop for a celebration and won the slow ride
contest over Gold Wings and Harleys. I really like the looks of
the stand, the Honda mechanics didn't know it wasn't the OEM side-stand
or notice that the bike was lowered. I had to point it out to
them, they were impressed and liked the ride and ride height.
Long Term Report - July 27,
Almost 32,000 miles no issues with height or side stand. The first test ride
and park was outstanding, no
Long Term Report - May 7,
23,000 miles now and the ride is great, no issues to report. We did
1,600 miles in 72 hours. We rode from Orlando to Canton, GA to ride
Blood Mountain, Deal's Gap, and the Cherohala Skyway. The Dragon and the
Skyway two up. Nothing scraped two up with saddlebags and trunk
Long Term Report - March 31,
Over 20,000 miles now and the ride is great, no issues to report.
Long Term Report - July 7,
Over 15,000 miles now and the ride is great. I still haven't
scraped on anything even two up.
Long Term Report - August 4,
Almost 11,000 miles now and still going strong. I still haven't
scraped on any speed bumps.
Long Term Report - March 26,
I rode the bike for about 3,000 miles at stock height over nine months
and was miserable as I had a number of close calls while stopping
(5'10", 153 lbs., 31" pant inseam). Parking lots, gravel roads, and
awkward stops were nightmares for me. I almost sold the bike after
riding with my friends (who all have cruisers and have their knees about
up to their chest when they stop) at Biketoberfest 2003. I was
riding The Loop (see link in the resources section) two up and they
decided to pull over on a small gravel patch on a steep slope. I
almost lost it a few times. I started doing research over the
following month. I ordered a link and side-stand and lowered my 2003
VFR800A back in March of 2004 (before Bike Week). I have put on about
5,500+ miles since lowering it and have not had a single issue. I have
gone over speed bumps of massive proportions two up at a good clip by
accident and not scraped. I have not had any issues with the
lean angle. The
handling is the same as stock, no difference in cornering or highway
speeds and beyond. I now have my feet flat on the ground, yes 1.2
makes a big difference, and a little bend in my knees. I have not had
one close call since.
Total Time: ~1 Hour
Total Cost: ~$365.00 (Lowering
Link, Risers, and side-stand)
Run-time: 1:50, 26.8MB
You need a simple car
alarm, I recommend the $69.99 CrimeStopper CS-2000II from Crutchfield, now
discontinued, just Google for a small basic alarm. You will also need a few $19.99 piazzo sirens from
Best Buy Car Audio Shop, two
$2.99 diodes from a local electronics shop, and a soldering iron. Just follow
the wiring instructions that come with the alarm, use the diodes to isolate the
left and right side flashers, so you do not cross energize the
flashers during normal operations, and connect them to the flasher relay from
the alarm. The rest is simple power and ground and you are done. If you would
like you can wire up the ignition kill as well, I did. I recommend zip tying
the alarm brain up under the rear tail support. This will keep it away from any
water when washing the bike or riding in a monsoon. The piazzo sirens can be
easily hidden within the body work in the dash and under the seat. They are
extremely loud and the flashers are a good attention getter. I would recommend
against using the auto arm feature. Just arm it when you need to using the key
fob. Otherwise if it is armed at bike week and the Harleys set it off, you know
you will find your bike on its side and beat for being annoying. The alarm has
a dual stage shock sensor that is adjustable. This should cover you, now
granted someone has to hear the alarm that cares, which is rare, but this is
just one step in a series of security steps to encourage the would-be thief to
move to an easier target. It is very good for traveling, just park your bike
close to your room and you will hear the alarm even in your sleep.
Total Time: 2 Hours
Total Cost: $115 (Alarm $75, Piazzo Sirens $20 each)
Run-time: 0:24, 6.3MB
motorcycles have hazard lights (OK, 2004+ VFR's now have them)? This one is easy. You need a
two prong flasher relay from any automotive store, two diodes (NTE5812 Rectifier
Diode, 6A 100V), and a switch (switch is optional). Using removable wire leads,
take power from a constant wire (battery +) and attach it to one of the flasher
posts. Connect another removable wire lead and wire to the other flasher post
(you can hardwire this but then replacing the flasher will be a pain) and solder
it to the two diodes. The diodes allow electricity to flow in only one
direction, use a multi-meter to make sure the diodes are allowing current to
flow from the flasher toward the turn signals. The diodes prevent the left and
right turn signals from cross powering each other during normal operation. Now
you have two diodes connected to one wire from the flasher. Run one diode to
the left blinker wire and the other gets spliced into the right blinker wire.
Splicing into the rear turn signals will energize the front as well. You can
disconnect the power wire from the flasher relay and tuck the wires away under
the seat (see video above) or you can run a switch between the battery and the
flasher to make things a little easier to access. Be sure to use wire heat
shrink wrap or electrical tape to insulate all your connections and diodes. My
thought on the hazard lights were that if you are on the side of the road, you
cannot leave your lights on for long without draining the battery. The hazards
will give you the protection of being seen without draining the battery by
running the headlights. Adding a switch and hiding it up under the dash gives
you the ability to turn on the hazards when you want, rather than having to go
under the seat to connect the flasher.
Total Time: 45 Minutes
Total Cost: ~$10 for Flasher,
Wire, and Diodes
Rear Turn Signals into Marker Lights
Run-time: 0:15, 4.6MB
This one is a straight forward
modification, you just need a spool of wire (14, 16, or 18 gauge will do) and a
post quick connect like the gold one shown above. Simply splice in to the
middle wire of the front left and right turn signal wires by cutting around the
casing and again a few millimeters down with a razor blade, be careful not to
cut yourself. Then cut the casing connecting the rings and remove that section
of casing. Take the wire to be run to the rear and wrap it around the exposed
wire and solder it in place. Then wrap tightly with electrical tape. Zip tie
the wires from the left and right center wires back to the rear of the bike.
There are a series of wires that run along the frame on the left side to the
battery area, just add these wires to them zip tying as you go. When you get to
the battery area, loosen the rear seat plastic, on the left side you will find a
wire run from the rear lights to the battery area. Run your wires from the
battery area up with the wire run, zip tying as you go.
Then when you have the wires
run to the rear look at the turn signal connectors, you will see the center wire
is missing from the rear turn signal light connector. Yet if you look at
the posts for the light, the center post exists. Use a voltmeter to
determine left and right marker lights by turning on the turn signals (if you
didnt mark which wire is which when you started running them from the front),
the power to the marker wire is cut when the 35w flasher is activated
automatically. Use the clip pictured above to attach to the end of the
wire and set it in the center slot in the rear turn signal connector clip.
Zip tie the new wire to the existing left and right wires and replace the turn
signal connector and you are done. The rear turn signals are now wired
just like the front and can be removed and reconnected just as you could before
the modification. This modification really improves rear visibility.
I have also added a LED brake light and tail light license plate frame as well.
With the stock tail and brake lights, the added LED tail and brake lights, and
now the yellow marker lights, this bike is very hard to miss from the rear in
good weather or bad, day or night. Check out the video for an example of
how it will operate post modification. If you have trouble finding the
right size quick connect pictured above, send me an email and I will give you my
address. If you mail me a SASE (Self Addressed Stamped Envelope) I will
mail you two of them for free. I have about 956 left, the store only sold them by the case.
Total Time: 1 Hour
Total Cost: <$10 - Parts from
Local Electronics Shop
OK, let's be honest with each other, the
round reflectors on the forks and mud flap, they came off your Huffy.
There is just no need for that, hey... hey, take those playing cards out of the
spokes and listen up or you are getting a timeout. Here is what you can
to do. On the back of the VFR's mud flap below the license plate, at the bottom, there is a
reflector, which you need to order two. Take a look at the red
reflector, it has a post for the bolt and a second plastic post to hold the
reflector in position and prevent spinning. Now take off the round
reflectors, put the new reflector's bolt post through the hole and move the
reflector so the plastic "stop" post is against the top of the metal bracket and
reuse the nut from the round reflector. Now for the front, you need to
order two yellow front reflectors off of a 2003 CBR1100XX, they are the same as
the rear ones in every way, but yellow. When you remove your front round
reflectors you will notice that the reflector bracket has two holes, one for the
bolt and one for the "stop" post. The VFR's front reflector brackets were
designed for these rectangular reflectors. One last touch, when you take
off the round reflectors on the mud flap you will expose two silver rivets for the
reflector bracket. Take some fine grit sandpaper and scuff them a bit, now
use some paint or a permanent marker to black them out. Now with the four new
rectangular reflectors in place and the playing cards out of your spokes, you
can ride with the big boys.
Total Time: 30 Minutes
Total Cost: $27.53 - Ordered the
4 New Reflectors from a Dealer
Horn Replacement - Updated August 4, 2005
Tired of the moped horn that ships with
your VFR? Tired of cagers not being able to hear it as they try to kill
you... repeatedly? Well have I got a solution for you! Go to Advance
Discount Auto Parts (or any shop for that matter) and purchase a 132dB "Freeway
Blaster" horn. There is no wiring to be done, it is a simple swap
out, well fairly simple. Use a 10mm adjustable head angle ratcheting box wrench
(Sears Craftsman) to remove the old horn, there are two slide clips for the
wires, just pull them off. Now slide the clips on the posts of the new
horn. The "Freeway Blaster" I purchased is not polarity specific, so hook
the positive and negative up to the posts, no need to try and figure out which
post is which. Now put the mounting bolt of the new horn in the mounting
hole where you removed the old horn. The new horn is larger than the old
horn so you need to bend the bracket out a little. Also you will need and
adjustable head ratcheting box wrench to get behind the bracket to get the
bigger horn back on. It is a bit of a knuckle buster getting the bolt on
the post and getting it tightened down. My VFR now sounds just like a
OK, this still is not doing
it for me. I need more, would semi air horns fit on the VFR? Ari, from the
VFR list, has a project on the books for Fiamm horns. Depending on how that goes I
may head down that road.
Total Time: 1 Hour (Knuckle
Total Cost: $14.84
If you have the Nolan Classic 100e Plus
helmet (great flip face) then you cannot use the D-ring helmet hooks under the
seat. But here is an easy solution. Go to Home Depot and buy three
feet of 1/4" plastic coated cable (making two helmet cables), cable stop crimp
blocks, and wiring heat shrink wrap. Cut the wire in half and use the stop
crimp blocks to create loops at each end and hammer the blocks shut. Then
slip the heat shrink over the blocks and use a heat gun or hair dryer to shrink
it down. Now everything is plastic coated and will not scratch your paint.
Connect one loop to the D-ring hook on the bike, then run the other end up
through the helmet and out the visor opening and hook the other loop over the
D-ring hook. The helmet hangs visor up and will help keep it dry if
it rains. Now for the jackets, I had an extra six foot Belkin computer
security cable with $500 theft guarantee, but you could do the same as the
helmet cables. I run the cable through the
sleeves of our jackets and rest them on the saddle. I then pad lock the
cable to the open area on the passenger foot peg strut on the right (away from
the chain). It makes life so much easier not having to lug around your
jacket with CE armor in the Florida heat. When you are done, the helmet
cables, jackets cable, and lock tuck nicely away under the right side seat
Total Time: 30 Minutes
Total Cost: ~$20
Can you tell where they are? The picture on the right shows the location
of the guards in the picture on the left.
As we all know riding involves a lot of
shifting your weight, well if you are having fun in the twisties it does.
That means friction against your paint. Add a tank bag and your paint
takes a real beating. What to do? Add a tank protector pad?
That pad only protects your tank from your jacket, causes a waxing nightmare,
and the adhesive that holds it on may damage your paint anyway. Well what
about 3M adhesive film? Good stuff, but when it gets dull and scratched,
then what? Peal it off and you are left with trying to remove the adhesive
without damaging the paint.
So what then to do? Well
www.MurphysMotorWorks.com has a
solution it is a non-adhesive protective film.
It comes in sheets and if you don't
make any mistakes, you can cover the knee pockets, tank top (for your tank bag), and the tank face
with one pack. But get two just in case. These sheets are held in
place by static and they work great. Once they are on they are invisible
and the are really on there. You really have to pick to get them to come off. But that
is the great thing, you can take them on and off as much as you want. When
they get scratched up just take them off, order a new pack, and use your old
guards to trace out your new ones with a grease pencil or dry erase pen.
Total Time: 1 Hour (Trace, Cut
Out, and Apply)
Total Cost: ~$10.00
Run-time: 2:52, 39.6MB
This is an easy one. The Honda Vista
Cruise requires little or no modifications. There is enough space
between the grip and the ignition housing that the Vista Cruise just fits in
perfect (Vista Cruise model 07-4045, 7/8", Honda Dual Throttle Cable). You may need to tighten
the throttle cable sleeve nuts under the ignition housing on the grip so that
they are parallel. The width of the Vista Cruise foot is the exact
distance between the nut sides and if one of the edges is pointed at the other
the space will be too small. You may need to move one of the nuts to put
pressure on the foot. There is one thing you need to do to the grip.
The rubber lip by the housing needs to be tucked in behind the white plastic lip
of the throttle itself. If you do not have risers on your bike you will
also need to grind down the thumb lever so that it doesn't hit the tank when
turning hard over. Use a Dremel to grind it down to the angle of the tank
and then polish the end. If you have
risers, no worries, you're done. The nice thing is that your thumb knuckle sits
under the lever and when you roll the throttle forward your thumb knuckle
unlocks it. Even without unlocking, rolling the throttle forward in a panic
situation isn't an issue as the friction is just enough to hold the throttle in
place at speed (firsthand experience).
Total Time: 15 Minutes
Total Cost: $20.00
Plus Tax at My Dealer
PAIR, Variable Air Intake Valve
and Snorkel Modification
Ease to do
and it smoothens out the power band. This will give you a little less than a
horse of extra power, it will reduce throttle chop and help the flat spot
between 5,000 and 5,500 RPM. The dyno before and after are on VFR Discussion
the gas tank as you would to replace the air filter. Remove the vacuum hose
from the variable air intake and plug both the tube and the valve using a
rubber end caps from your standard wire shelving unit (just go to Lowes and in
the shelving isle you will see them). I also pulled out the snorkel for
the air box (you just pull it out). Then disconnect the PAIR Valve wiring
done. Also on the air box you will see a rubber snorkel, you can remove
that by just pulling it out while twisting a little. This will improve air
intake, see below to improve exhaust flow. So far MPG is the same but the mid-range is much smoother, YMMV.
Total Time: 20 Minutes
Total Cost: $0.00
This one is
one of the more difficult modification to do without needing a welder. Now
if you have a welder and can weld, this should be a snap. First let me say
I did not remove the catalytic converter. You need a welder to properly
remove the cat to reduce back pressure fully, although this will help when
combined with the VAIV, PAIR, and Snorkel removal in the above modification.
The pictures during the build were lost, so I can just show you the after
pictures. You will need the following tools: Dremel with flex shaft
attachment, Dremel reinforced cut-off wheels, two 16" needle nose pliers, needle nose
pliers, razor cutter, Dremel sanding discs and a metal file.
Start by loosening the bolts where the exhaust meets the cat and remove your
rear fairing. Then remove the hanger bolts for the exhaust and lower
it onto the rear tire. Remove the shields and make sure you have the
rubber tab inserts and the two rubber hex spacers (small items look around).
You can then remove the exhaust (it can be done without removing the rear
tire, just wiggle it).
Now the fun begins... Cut along the weld seam for the end cap but cut
across at a 45° angle where the end cap shield nut support is located so
you can reattach your end cap shield. See first picture, bottom
exhaust outlet, you can see the only part of the end cap left. Once
that is done, use the cut-off wheel to go around the baffle following the
holes in a row about 2" at a time. You will then need to use the
pliers to fold in the baffle to get it past the end cap portion you did not
cut off for the end cap shield retaining nut. (Now if you can weld,
just cut the cap off and pull the whole thing out and weld the cap back on
and done.) Keep cutting the baffle like this all the way to the end using the Dremel flex shaft and extended needle nose pliers as you
get deeper. Now reaseble in reverse.
The exhaust sounds like a ALMS car rumble from the V-4, but not as loud as a
Harley. Love it!
Total Time: 4 Hours
Total Cost: $0.00
Make Your VFR
a True Solo Seat
I don't ride two up anymore so I
thought some cosmetic adjustments should be made. Our VFRs come
with the passenger seat cover and passenger grab rail mount covers.
Simply remove the passenger grab rails if they are on and replace them with
the color matched caps that came with the bike. Put the passenger seat
cover on. Next remove the passenger foot pegs. If you have an
ABS model you will need to remove the damping adjustment knob bracket and
remove the rear fairing bolt just above; then pull the fairing out a little
and tuck the adjustment knob away in the rear fairing (see pictures).
Now you will need to move the side reflectors from the mud flap to the holes
where the passenger foot peg brackets connected to the rear frame. Now
the side looks much nicer and you can clearly see that beautiful single
sided swing arm.
Now to clean up the back. You
will need an adhesive white LED flexible light strip from AutoZone.
Disconnect the license plate light wiring harness and remove the mud flap.
Using the existing most inward mud flap mount holes use two wide adjustable
"L" brackets (car stereo universal mount type are easiest to use and offer
lateral adjustment or just bend ones from Lowes) with some bolts, washers,
and lock nuts to make the plate mount. If you have a plate frame it
helps to support the plate. I used bolt reflectors to eliminate the
rear reflector, you may add a small bracket from the plate to attach the
larger original reflector should you so desire. Next clean the rear
pan above the plate with rubbing alcohol or Windex and stick the LED to it
just in front of the plate; run the wires up through the other mounting hole
and zip tie or tape as needed to secure. Connect the LED strip leads
to the license plate light wiring harness and you are done.
Total Cost: $8.00
Ybor City Bike Fest 2003 - Tampa
I was riding two up with my wife. My father in-law (taking the
pictures) was riding the red Harley right in front of my VFR.
These shots are pre lowering and pre reflector swap out.
My wife and I at the marina. Shot of the VFR loaded with
saddlebags and sport trunk. My wife loves the sport trunk because
she can lean back and enjoy the ride. The two of us can get 4 days
of clothes and toiletries in the saddlebags and sport trunk (we dont
pack light either)
I went up with 5 other riders on a Harley Road King, 2 Yamaha FJRs, a BMW, and an
Arlen Ness Victory (Nice bike).
We stopped at the Speedway first to see the V-twin vendor display.
Then we hit Main Street.
Chica's Unicorn as seen on Discovery Channel's Great Biker Build-Off.
Corry Ness's bike.
OCC's Trim Spa bike.
OCC Dixie Choppers bike.>
2005 O'ahu Hawaii
While in Hawaii on our honeymoon we rented a Harley Duce for a day and
rode the island of Oahu. We put 300 miles riding around the
island. This is a picture of HWhile in Hawaii on our honeymoon we rented a Harley Duce for a day and
rode the island of Oahu. We put 300 miles riding around the
island. This is a picture of Heather when we went to the Dole
plantation hedge maze.
Heather and I stopped on the North Shore (the big breaks are to the west
more). Great weather and the
Duce is very comfortable, I really like that Harley."75">
We stayed at the Hilton Hawaiian Village.
Picture of the water from our balcony.
Facing downtown from our balcony.
Honolulu pictures from our hotel balcony.
The crew this time was a group of 5 bikes again. Harley Road King,
Yamaha FJR, BMW, a Suzuki and my VFR.
Skeleton bike with hidden gas tank.
Another angle of the skeleton bike.
Our local boy (Melbourne, FL) Billy Lane and his 2005 road show.
In the background is his most recent Biker Build-Off winner, note the
hood ornament on the tank. Billy
was nowhere to be found but we have been running into him at bars around
Melbourne and Cocoa Beach for years. Nice guy.
OCC's Hooters Bike.
Tampa Bikefest 2006 - Tampa, FL
Trick Harley V-ROD, I'd actually consider owning this Harley.
He ended up looking like an ass on Build or Bust when he tried to build a bike with Russell Mitchell. That being said,
the ass is creative, look at the silver bike. They removed the back
cylinder and put the transmission up there.
Honda now has airbags. I want air conditioning next.
Roland Sands of PM. The most uncomfortable seat ever.
My customer (Corvette Racing) and one of the products I manage,
In the immortal
words of Denis Miller: "That's the news for this Saturday night and
I... am... out of here."
Tampa Bikefest, look a Suzuki with a single sided swing arm. If only Honda made a
bike from the factory with a SSS, oh, wait...
For when that first Harley motor breaks down you have a spare.
A chopper with a SSS...
The Wolf, The Dragon, and Cherohala Skyway
May 4th, 5th, and 6th 2007
... and so it began... The 1,600 mile trek in 72 hours began
Thursday evening from Orlando, setting out with the saddlebags and sport
trunk packed with bottles of water in the tank bag. Eight hours later we were in Canton, GA to stay at
our friend's new place.
Scott, Mike, Nick, Jeff and I headed out Friday to Blood Mountain to
ride Wolf Pen Gap, 371 turns in 36 miles. It was a beautiful day.
I don't know if it was the fact the Wolf was in the dry and the Dragon
was in the rain, but I had more fun on the Wolf.
Saturday, the weather turned bad, but we
were going to ride Deal's Gap and slay The Dragon... in the rain.
Yes, ride the Dragon, 318 turns in 11 miles, for the first time, in a
downpour, and with gravel washed out in to the corners. So it
turned out okay, a little unnerving at times, but very fun.
We ran the Cherohala Skyway after the Dragon and the rain let up.
But we didn't have the luck of the Irish. We got to the top and
then experienced whiteout conditions. You could not see more than one
or two car lengths ahead of you.
We stopped on our way to ride the Wolf.
There are a lot of chicken farms in GA. The smell, my God the
smell. On a side note the B-B-Q is outstanding.
We stopped at the Deal's Gap Motorcycle Resort. We loaded up on
T-shirts and stickers. I took the bags and trunk off the Viffer so
I just used Scott's bags to store stuff. Other people's saddlebags
are very convenient.
The only shot on Cherohala, note the clouds
rolling in. We traveled the rest of the ride in complete whiteout
conditions. I could not see more than a car's length in front of
Nick, Scott, Mike, and Jeff.
Motley crew: Sean, Heather, Charity, Nick, Whitey, Mike, and Scott.
Jeff's Harley broke down on the way back from the Wolf (bad regulator),
so he could not join us.
We started our run and stopped at an
Scott and I.
The rain is letting up, let's go.
From here we raced up the loop to TWO (Two
Wheels Only) resort.
We paid homage to the tree of shame and hoped we wouldn't add anything to it.
TWO, nice place. There was a VFR rally going on that weekend so I
was nice to see a lot of other Viffers on the road.
TWO is located in Suches, Georgia.
We stopped at the dam. This is where they filmed the dam sequence
in The Fugitive.
Mike at TWO.
This dam looks to be in very bad shape. Huge cracks, exposed
rebar, I wouldn't buy property down stream below 75ft above the
We are looking at a bunch of VFRs that were arriving out of frame.
Turns out there was a VFR rally up there that weekend. It was nice
to see so many Viffers in one place.
The Dragon assault begins.
Whitey led us. Only Scott had been on the Dragon once before.
Apparently Scott's boot purchase over the Internet lead to some nice but
Scott and Charity
Jeff enjoying the lounge chairs.
Heather and I, in the rain, first time on the Dragon with gravel
washouts on the road. FUN!
So is our food ready yet?
This is overlooking the dam and waterfall at TWO Wheels where we ate
Nick, me, Scott, Jeff, Mike and waterfall. You would think we had never
seen a waterfall.
Can we go now?
Scott and his bike.
Top of the Wolf. We stopped at the store.
We managed to slay the Dragon in the rain.
Bikes still there, check. Get picture to be sure, check.
View from the overlook.
|It is that time
of year again. I am still trying to figure out what my next Sport
Tourer will be, but that didn't stop me from test riding the absurd.
It rained and stormed Thursday night and Friday so that limited the
rides and BMW didn't bring out an R1200S. Will the rumors on a new
2009 VFR be true, well Honda wasn't talking.
My friend Dan on basically a snowmobile with three wheels.
My friend John on a V8 barstool. No demo rides for this one, too
My friend John on the Boss Hoss 350CI 5.7 Liter V8 motorcycle...
What? You can demo these? Sign us up.
What did I get myself into? 1,200+ lbs and I weigh 153 wet.
Yeah, okay there, Jesse James.
Automatic two speed, V8, and it handled very nicely. I was able to
corner well with it.
Nice Honda picture set up...
Marketing didn't see that one coming...
Manish and I rode into the infield to watch the pre-races.
That Saturday was the big race and Scott and I knew one of the racers.
This is Scott and Nate Kern who rides for BMW.
We had passes and were in the pits for a while and then we went to the
Run-time: 0:49, 843KB
We ended the day in the midfield stands.
Sheriff's Office PAL 2010 Ride
Dan Haggerty aka Grizzly Adams
Who's guarding the doughnut shop?
Which one of these is not like the others?
I shot PoV video for the ride.
Dan and the Chrome Divas
Run-time: 0:20, 16MB
- Revolutionary VTEC combines the power
characteristics of both two-valve and four-valve
cylinder head designs. The engine runs on
two-valves-per-cylinder below 6800 rpm and then
switches to four-valves-per-cylinder, delivering
significantly stronger low-end and mid-range
torque, while maintaining the Interceptor's
impressive high-rpm power delivery.
- The Interceptorฎ meets the California Air
Resources Board (CARB) 2008 emissions standards.
- Silent-type cam-chain drive eliminates
mechanical gear noise. The system features a set
of dual tensioners that maintain optimal
pressure and lubrication for the camshaft
chains, ensuring quiet operation and long life.
- Programmed fuel injection (PGM-FI) uses four
laser-drilled 12-hole injectors, for finer fuel
atomization, improved combustion efficiency,
reduced emissions and increased power.
- Iridium-tip spark plugs are ignited by
compact high-energy coil-on-plug spark plug caps
that produce a strong, high-voltage spark.
- Unique NR-style center-up exhaust system
incorporates two stainless steel mufflers tucked
snugly under the Interceptor's tail section.
- Clutch features an offset outside friction
plate for quiet operation when starting from a
- Three-phase coil-spring damper in the
transmission provides for smooth upshifts.
- Large-diameter, 43mm Honda Multi-Action
System (HMAS) cartridge front fork provides
enhanced handling under all riding conditions.
- Four brilliant multi-reflector headlights
employ two centrally positioned H4 low/high
beams positioned under two widely spaced H7 high
beams for brilliant nighttime illumination.
- 5.8-gallon fuel capacity.
- Compact, 781cc DOHC 90 V-4 with an
oversquare bore and stroke of 72mm x 48mm.
- Combustion chambers feature an 11.6:1
compression ratio and are fed by programmed fuel
injection through short, straight intake ports.
- Interceptor engine serves as a stressed
member of the pivotless frame, which features
specially designed engine mounting bolts tuned
to work in harmony with the damping
characteristics of the frame.
- Aluminum composite cylinder sleeves are
high-pressure-formed from sintered aluminum
powder impregnated with ceramic and graphite.
The composite sleeves provide better wear
resistance and superior heat dissipation
compared to conventional sleeves.
- Cast aluminum pistons feature LUB-Coat solid
lubricant to minimize friction between piston
and cylinder wall.
- Auto-enriching system is integrated into
PGM-FI module, optimizing the air/fuel mixture
on cold starts and eliminating the need for a
- Solenoid-operated dual-air-intake-duct
design keeps one duct closed during low-speed
operation to ensure optimal control of air
- Dual side-mounted radiators maximize cooling
efficiency using low-air-pressure areas created
by side cowls to draw cooling air through the
radiators. During low-speed operation, a
thermostat-controlled left-side fan pulls
cooling air across the radiator into the
fairing, keeping hot air away from the rider.
- Rugged 125mm-diameter eight-plate clutch
offers light weight and high load capacity.
- Exceptionally smooth-shifting six-speed
- Triple-box-section twin-spar aluminum frame
features a tuned, pivotless design that isolates
the engine-mounted swingarm from the frame and
contributes to handling comfort.
- Interceptor's beautiful Pro Armฎ single-side
cast aluminum swingarm, mounted to the engine,
provides an optimal balance of rigidity and
tuned flex for superb handling.
- Pro-Linkฎ rear suspension features a 40mm
gas-charged HMAS shock with 4.7 inches of travel
and adjustable spring preload and rebound
damping. (ABS-equipped model has a convenient
spring preload adjustment knob.) The Pro-Link
arm is anchored directly to a cast aluminum
bracket on the rear of the engine case.
- Linked Braking System (LBS) uses a second
master cylinder and a proportional control valve
(PCV) to couple the three-piston calipers of the
dual-front and single-rear brake discs for even
better braking feel, while providing the peace
of mind of an LBS system. Using the front brake
lever activates the outer two pistons of the
left-side front caliper, all three pistons of
the right-side caliper and the center piston of
the rear caliper. Rear pedal engagement
activates the two outer pistons of the rear
caliper and the center piston in the left-front
- The Interceptor's 296mm floating front brake
discs feature a lightweight seven-spoke inner
- U-section cast aluminum wheels are light and
reduce unsprung weight.
- The six-spoke, 3.5-inch-wide front wheel
carries a 120/70ZR-17 radial tire. The
five-spoke, 5.5-inch rear wheel sports a wide,
low-profile 180/55ZR-17 radial tire.
- The Interceptor's sleek, aerodynamic
bodywork is functional as well as beautiful.
- Air flowing through a central air vent under
the front windshield provides cool air to the
rider at low speeds and increases rider comfort
at higher speeds.
- A second model is available with Anti-Lock
Brake System (ABS) for even better braking
- High-tech instrument display includes
electronic tachometer, LCD readouts for
speedometer, air temperature, coolant
temperature, odometer, two tripmeters, and
- ACG output of 497 watts.
- Detachable seat offers access to space to
carry U-lock and other necessities. (Lock not
- Removable passenger seat cowl.
- Adjustable brake and clutch levers.
- Removable Injection-molded nylon passenger
grabrails are comfortable to the touch in cold
or hot weather.
- Folding aerodynamic mirrors.
- Engine Type:
781cc liquid-cooled 90ฐ V-4
- Bore and Stroke:
72mm x 48mm
- Valve Train:
VTEC DOHC; four valves per cylinder
PGM-FI with automatic enrich circuit
Computer-controlled digital with
three-dimensional mapping and electronic advance
- Final Drive:
#530 O-ring-sealed chain
Front: 43mm HMAS cartridge fork
with spring preload adjustability; 4.3 inches
Rear: Pro Arm single-side swingarm with
Pro-Link single HMAS gas-charged shock with
spring preload and rebound damping
adjustability; 4.7 inches travel
Front: Dual full-floating 296mm discs with
Linked Braking System (LBS) three-piston
Rear: Single 256mm disc with LBS
three-piston caliper; ABS
Front: 120/70ZR-17 Dunlop D220
Rear: 180/55ZR-17 Dunlop D220
- Rake (Caster
100mm (3.9 inches)
- Seat Height:
- Dry Weight:
- Fuel Capacity:
5.8 gallons, including 0.8-gallon reserve
- My Fuel Mileage:
- The following are from
on-line sources (third party):
Horsepower: 100.3 at rear wheel at 10,500
55.4 at rear wheel at 8,600 rpm
mile: 11.14 sec at 122.00 mph
0 - 60: 3.2 sec
0 - 100: 7.1 sec
170.3 mph at 12,000 rpm in 12.2 sec on a dyno